Against the Flow

''You have to be on your guard when you go back to special places. You may be able to locate them easily enough on the map, but maps tell only one story. Times change and places and people with them. The memory plays curious tricks, and things aren''t always as you remember or expect.''

Twenty years ago, Tom Fort drove his little red car onto the ferry at Felixstowe, bound for all points east. Eas...