Carbonara and Catacombs: Rome

Four cities in, Pippa Henley and Pieter Doderlein have learned to recognize the particular hush that falls over a kitchen when a story is about to become something more than food. In Rome, that hush arrives at Trattoria Conti, a small family restaurant tucked near Trastevere, where twelve-year-old Giulia Conti and her grandmother, Nonna Carmela, are quietly preparing for the biggest week of the fa...