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With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.
Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars
Winner o...
Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars
Winner o...
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With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.
Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars
Winner o...
Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars
Winner o...
Read more
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