Under the Wave at Waimea

From renowned writer Paul Theroux comes a dazzling novel following a big-wave surfer in Hawaii as he confronts ageing, privilege and mortality

''It was as if in surfing he was carving his name in water, invisibly, joyously.''

Joe Sharkey knows he is passed his prime.

Now in his sixties, the younger surfers around the breaks on the north shore of Oahu still revere him as the once-legendary ''Shark'', ...