Dirty Dishes

Everyone has an opinion about Pino Luongo. To Tony Bourdain, he was the notorious Pino Noir, the shadowy kingpin of a restaurant empire. To Manhattanites, he was either the savior or the scourge of the city''s dining scene. To the many fans of his cookbooks, he was the herald of Tuscan cuisine.

In Dirty Dishes, Luongo emerges to tell his side of the story. And it''s quite a story: After an idyllic ...