Meatballs for the People

On a regular day, Chinese, English and German can be heard spoken in this much-loved Stockholm restaurant; tourists and bearded södermalmare discuss whether to choose the classic Swedish meatballs or one of the specials, such as wild boar meatballs, whether the sides should be mashed potatoes, lingonberries and brown sauce or mushroom risotto. But one thing is certain: no one is thinking about any...